Microcement for outdoor patios and terraces on plywood

1. Materials & Tools

Gather everything before you begin

Purpose:

Gather all tools and materials before starting. Several products have strict working times—you don't want to stop mid-application to find a missing tool.

Mixing & Application Tools:

• Drill with spiral paddle mixer
• Clean mixing buckets (multiple)
• Stainless steel trowel with rounded edges
• Flexible putty knives (various sizes)
• Short-nap rollers and brushes
• Foam roller (for Aquafloor Eco)
• Spray bottle with clean water

Sanding & Cleaning:

• 80-120 grit sandpaper or sanding screens
• Orbital sander or similar (for flat areas)
• Sanding block (for hand sanding edges)
• Shop vacuum with brush attachment
• Clean, lint-free cloths

Preparation & Protection:

• Painter's tape and masking plastic
• Drop cloths
• Work light (for raking light inspection)
• PPE: gloves, safety goggles, dust mask

For pools and outdoor work:

• Extension poles for rollers and trowels

2. Surface Preparation - Outdoor

Prepare patios, terraces, and balconies

Purpose:

Outdoor installations face UV exposure, temperature swings, rain, and freeze-thaw cycles. Thorough preparation and proper drainage are essential—water that can't escape will eventually cause failure.

Plywood:

• Exterior-grade plywood, minimum ¾" (19mm), screwed down flush with no flex
• All joints get Ardex SK Mesh and Ardex X5, then the whole face is skimmed (see the Ardex X5 step)
• Allow the skim to cure 24 hours before WATstop

Drainage — Critical:

• Verify proper slope for water drainage (1-2% minimum)
• Water must flow away from structures toward drains or edges
• Clear and protect all floor drains
• Identify and mark expansion joints, fill with Diaseal Strong — Safety Joint Roll will still be applied over the joint during WATstop
• Plan termination at edges, thresholds, and transitions

Weather Requirements:

• No rain expected for 48 hours after each coat
• Temperature: 10-30°C during application and curing
• Avoid direct sunlight on wet material—causes rapid drying
• No application if frost expected within 7 days
• Set up temporary shelter or tarp if weather is uncertain

Masking & Protection:

• Mask walls, planters, and fixed furniture
• Protect door thresholds and adjacent surfaces
• Cover plants and landscaping near work area
• Plan exit path—don't coat yourself into a corner

3. Ardex X5 Joint Filling

Fill joints, grout lines, and gaps

Purpose:

Ardex X5 is a rigid, cementitious filling mortar that fills joints, seams, and imperfections to create a smooth, continuous surface. For joints that need to move — expansion and control joints — use Diaseal Strong instead; a movement joint is never rigidly filled.

When Required:

• Plywood/OSB and cement board: the seams and the skim coat (required—Ardex SK Mesh on the seams)
• Deep tile grout lines (>3mm)
• Screw heads and fasteners
• Cracks, gaps, and surface imperfections
• Material transitions

Mixing:

• Water ratio: 5.68-6.6 L per 18 kg (40 lb) bag — for smaller batches, about 330 ml water per 1 kg powder
• Pour water into the bucket first, then gradually add powder while mixing
• Mix 2-3 minutes with a heavy-duty drill and paddle until smooth and lump-free
• Do NOT overwater — extra water weakens the mortar
• Stir again briefly just before use
• Pot life: 3 hours at 21°C — if it stiffens within that window, re-stir with the drill; never add more water

Application — Structural Joints:

• Center Ardex SK Mesh tape (non-woven polyester, alkali-resistant) over seam
• Apply Ardex X5 over tape, pressing firmly to embed
• Feather edges 50-75mm beyond tape on each side
• Fill screw heads flush with surface
• For corners: fold tape or overlap by 25mm

Plywood — Float the Whole Surface:

• Don't stop at the seams — skim the entire floor with a thin coat of Ardex X5 as you work
• This flattens the substrate and evens out absorption, so the next coat (primer, WATstop, or Decorkrete) dries uniformly instead of soaking too fast into bare plywood
• It also puts the filling and flattening in the affordable mortar instead of the microcement — you'll use less Decorkrete

4. WATstop Waterproofing · Floors

Two-coat moisture barrier for damp substrates

Purpose:

WATstop at 2.0 kg/m² creates a full waterproof barrier for concrete or tile floors with moisture readings at or above 5%. Applied in two coats, this system prevents moisture migration and protects against vapor transmission.

When to Use 2.0 kg/m²:

• Concrete floors with moisture reading 5% or higher
• Tile floors over damp substrates
• Below-grade or slab-on-grade installations
• When moisture levels are unknown—default to 2.0 kg/m²

Coverage Planning (Two Coats):

• Total coverage: 2.0 kg per m² (two coats of 1.0 kg/m² each)
• 5 kg bucket covers approximately 2.5 m² total
• 10 kg bucket covers approximately 5 m² total
• Mix only what you can apply within 2 hours per batch

⚠️ CRITICAL: 2-HOUR POT LIFE

Once mixed, WATstop must be used within 2 hours. Do NOT close the container—exothermic reaction will occur!

Mixing (3-Component System):

• Mix Component C (cement powder) with the water first, into a smooth paste — roller/brush application: 30-40% water by weight; trowel application (floors only): 10-20%
• Add Component A (epoxy resin) and mix for 1 minute
• Add Component B (liquid catalyst)
• Mix with spiral paddle for 3-4 minutes until smooth and lump-free
• For roller application: add 30-40% water by weight
• Consistency should be like thick paint

Pre-Treatment:

• Expansion joints: Fill with Diaseal Strong before WATstop—maintains flexibility and allows slab movement without affecting coating
• Larger cracks: Fill them flush with Ardex X5 or a repair mortar before you coat. You can also trowel WATstop into them, but mortar is the cheaper fill. Once a crack is filled there's nothing left to tape, so it doesn't need Safety Joint Roll
• Cracks that keep moving: Treat them as expansion joints and fill them with Diaseal Strong
• Hairline cracks can be coated over without treatment

First Coat:

• Apply with short-nap roller for large areas, brush for edges
• Work in one consistent direction for even coverage
• Target coverage: 1.0 kg/m²
• Ensure complete coverage—no pinholes or thin spots
• If you're using Safety Joint Roll at junctions or expansion joints, embed it into the wet first coat

Second Coat:

• Apply once the first coat is touch dry (5-12 hours at 23°C / 50% RH) — never more than 24 hours after
• Apply perpendicular to first coat direction
• Target coverage: 1.0 kg/m² for 2.0 kg/m² total
• Ensure any Safety Joint Roll is fully covered
• Check for complete, uniform coverage

5. Decorkrete Application

Apply decorative microcement coating

Purpose:

• Decorkrete is the decorative microcement coating that creates your finished surface. Applied in two thin coats totaling approximately 2mm thickness, it develops the characteristic depth, texture, and organic beauty of microcement.

Coverage Rate:

• Total coverage: 1.20 kg/m² (both coats combined)
• First coat: approximately 0.60 kg/m²
• Second coat: approximately 0.60 kg/m²
• Set and work time: Initial set 30 min · work time 60 min at 20°C or cooler

Mixing (Bicomponent Kit):

• Decorkrete is a pre-dosed two-component kit — Component A (fine-cement powder) : Component B (elastic latex resin liquid) = 10:3 by weight. To mix part of a kit, follow the Batch Mixing Guide. Never batch by eye.
• Pour Component B (liquid resin) into the mixing pail first
• Add colour toner to the resin and mix briefly to disperse - both coats are toned
• Gradually add Component A (powder) while mixing with a spiral paddle
• Mix on low-medium speed (300-500 rpm) for 3-4 minutes
• Consistency should be like thick yogurt — a small splash of clean water can adjust consistency once per batch, at mixing or later while it's still workable. Water only adjusts the consistency; the kit ratio stays 10:3.

First Coat:

• Hold the trowel at about 45° with a little material on the edge and lay it on in short, slightly curved strokes
• Change direction constantly: up, across, on the diagonal, then back over at another angle. Each stroke covers the tails of the ones before it
• Keep it thin, about 1 mm. This coat covers; the second coat builds the finish
• Cover the whole surface, corners and edges included
• Work a section you can finish in 15-20 minutes and keep the edge wet. Blend each new stroke into the last before it skins
• Three or four passes over a spot is enough. Past that the trowel drags and darkens the colour
• Why the directions matter: every stroke leaves a faint line where the blade starts and stops. Strokes in one direction line those marks up into stripes. Strokes crossing each other break them into the soft, cloudy variation microcement is known for, and each pass catches the light a little differently
• The first coat's marks show through the second, so apply it the way you want the finish to look. For a smooth or cloudy finish, apply it as if it were the last coat. For a rustic stone look, leave ridges and crests in it on purpose: the height differences give the second coat its dimension

Between Coats:

• Wait 4-6 hours—surface should be firm but not fully cured
• Sanding between coats is only for large ridges you did not want: knock those down with 80-120 grit and vacuum. Otherwise leave the first coat alone

Second Coat:

• Same motion, same thickness: about 1 mm for 2 mm total. Its strokes cross the first coat's marks in fresh directions, which gives the surface its depth
• Hold the blade a little flatter and pull a little tighter for a smoother skin. Finish each section with light passes, the trowel almost flat, to compress the surface
• Smooth and even: tight overlapping strokes in every direction, light final passes
• Cloudier: vary pressure and stroke length a little. Once the coat begins to set (20-30 minutes), mist the surface until saturated and spread the water with the trowel; more water lightens the tone. This works best on darker colours; the cloud effect is hard to achieve on light or white colours
• Stone: over a first coat left with crests, lay this coat on smooth and even. Then set the trowel flat on the wet surface and lift it straight off: the pull leaves peaks and ridges, different every time. Knock them down with a light, flat pass that lays the peaks over without wiping them out. Sanding later creates the stone effect
• Stop when it starts to set. Reworking a stiffening area leaves dark streaks that only sanding back and recoating will remove

After Second Coat:

• Allow 24 hours minimum before sanding
• Protect from foot traffic and moisture during cure
• Application range: +5°C to +30°C; ideal working band 15-25°C, 40-60% humidity

6. Troweling Techniques

Laying on, crossing and closing each coat

Trowel Selection:

• Stainless steel trowel with rounded corners. Sharp corners dig in and leave lines
• Keep the blade clean. Dried material on it scratches the coat; wipe it often with a damp cloth
• Have a second trowel ready so the work never stops while one is being cleaned

Laying On:

• Hold the blade at about 45° with a little material on its leading edge and lay it on in short, slightly curved strokes
• As the Decorkrete spreads, let the blade drop flatter, to 15-30°. The steeper angle lays material on; the flatter angle spreads and compresses it
• Even light pressure from the start of the stroke to its end. Bearing down hard with the steel blade burns dark marks into the coat as it sets
• Change direction constantly: up, across, on the diagonal, then back over at another angle. Each stroke covers the tails of the ones before it and overlaps the last by about half
• Why the directions matter: every stroke leaves a faint line where the blade starts and stops. Strokes in one direction line those marks up into stripes; strokes crossing each other break them into the soft, cloudy variation microcement is known for
• Keep it thin, about 1 mm a coat. A lightly loaded blade and more strokes beats an overloaded trowel
• Three or four passes over a spot is enough. Past that the trowel drags and darkens the colour
• Work a section you can finish in 15-20 minutes and keep the edge wet. Blend each new stroke into the last before it skins

Finishing:

• Finish each section with light passes, the trowel almost flat, to compress the surface into a smooth skin
• Smooth and even: tight overlapping strokes in every direction, then the light final passes
• Cloudier: vary pressure and stroke length a little. Once the coat begins to set (20-30 minutes), mist the section until saturated and spread the water with the trowel; more water lightens the tone. This works best on darker colours; the cloud effect is hard to achieve on light or white colours
• Stone: over a first coat left with crests, lay this coat on smooth and even. Then set the trowel flat on the wet surface and lift it straight off: the pull leaves peaks and ridges, different every time. Knock them down with a light, flat pass that lays the peaks over without wiping them out. Sanding later creates the stone effect
• Stop when it starts to set. Reworking a stiffening area leaves dark streaks that only sanding back and recoating will remove

7. Sanding Decorkrete

Prepare surface for sealer application

Purpose:

Sanding smooths high spots, removes trowel marks, and creates a uniform surface texture before sealing. This step also opens the surface to accept D20 Fixative and Aquafloor Eco. Light, even sanding—not aggressive removal—is the goal.

Readiness Check:

• Wait minimum 24 hours after final Decorkrete coat
• Surface should be completely firm and dry to touch
• Cold or humid conditions extend cure time significantly

Tools Required:

• 80-120 grit sandpaper or sanding screens
• Orbital sander for flat areas (optional but faster)
• Sanding block for hand sanding
• Shop vacuum with brush attachment
• Clean, lint-free cloths
• Work light for raking light inspection

Sanding Process — Flat Areas:

• Use orbital sander with 80-120 grit disc or sanding screen
• Keep sander moving—never stay in one spot
• Use light, even pressure—let the sandpaper do the work
• Work in overlapping circular or random orbital motions
• Sand entire surface uniformly—don't focus only on visible high spots
• Check progress frequently by wiping away dust
• Stop when surface feels uniformly smooth

Sanding Process — Edges, Corners & Details:

• ALWAYS hand sand edges and corners—orbital sanders remove too much material
• Use 120-grit sandpaper wrapped around sanding block
• Work slowly with light pressure
• Check frequently—edges thin quickly
• For inside corners: fold sandpaper and work carefully
• For detailed areas: use smaller pieces of sandpaper by hand

How Much to Sand:

• Sand to smooth the surface; take off as little as possible
• High spots and trowel ridges should flatten
• Surface should feel uniformly smooth when you run your hand across it
• Some texture variation is normal and desirable—don't sand to perfection
• If you see primer or substrate, you've gone too far—touch up with Decorkrete

8. Dust Removal

Prepare surface for sealing

Purpose:

Dust contamination is the leading cause of sealer adhesion failure. Sanding creates fine particles that settle into the microcement's texture and pores. These particles must be completely removed before D20 Fixative—any remaining dust creates a barrier that prevents proper bonding and causes peeling, flaking, and delamination.

Tools Required:

• Shop vacuum with soft brush attachment
• Clean, lint-free cloths (microfiber works well)
• Clean water in spray bottle or bucket

Step 1 — Initial Vacuum:

• Vacuum entire surface thoroughly with brush attachment
• Work systematically—don't skip areas
• Pay extra attention to inside corners where dust accumulates
• Vacuum edges, transitions, and textured areas carefully
• Vacuum surrounding areas—dust on adjacent surfaces will migrate back

Step 2 — Damp Wipe:

• Dampen cloth with clean water—wring out thoroughly
• Cloth should be damp, not wet—excess water can damage uncured microcement
• Wipe entire surface in overlapping passes
• Rinse and re-wring cloth frequently as it collects dust
• Use fresh cloths as needed—dirty cloth just moves dust around
• Wipe corners and details with smaller cloth or folded edge

Step 3 — Dry:

• Allow surface to dry completely—typically 30-60 minutes
• Do not apply D20 to damp surface
• Warmer, drier conditions speed drying
• Ensure good ventilation during drying

Step 4 — Final Vacuum (If Needed):

• If a clean dark cloth wiped across the dry surface still picks up dust, repeat the vacuum and the damp wipe
• Do not proceed until the surface wipes clean
• Better to spend extra time cleaning than to have sealer failure

Environmental Considerations:

• Close windows and doors to prevent airborne dust settling
• Turn off HVAC if it circulates dust
• Remove any dust-generating activities from the area
• Apply D20 Fixative as soon as possible after final cleaning
• If significant time passes, re-inspect and clean again before D20

9. D20 Primer Application

Consolidating primer before final sealer

Purpose:

• Binds any remaining dust particles
• Consolidates and strengthens Decorkrete surface
• Provides ideal base for Aquafloor Eco adhesion
• Never skip this step - critical for durability

Application:

• Apply with short-nap foam roller
• Thin, even coat - avoid pooling
• Coverage rate: 0.15 kg/m²
• Work in one direction
• Ensure complete coverage

Drying:

• Dry time: 3 hours at 23°C / 50% RH
• Surface should be dry to touch
• Do not proceed if still tacky

10. Aquafloor Eco Sealer

Protective polyurethane coating

Before You Mix - Plan Your Batch:

• Pot life is 2 hours - only mix what you can apply in that window
• A full 6.25 kg kit covers about 31 m² (336 ft²) across all three coats - do NOT mix the whole kit for a smaller area
• For a partial batch, weigh out 80% Component A + 20% Component B (example: 800 g of A + 200 g of B)
• Reseal both containers immediately - unmixed product keeps for the next coat

Mixing (2-Component):

• Pour your measured Component B into the measured Component A
• Mix thoroughly for 2-3 minutes until homogeneous with no streaks
• Use immediately after mixing

Coat 1 - Diluted:

• Dilute the mixed product 30% with clean water (example: 1 kg of mix + 300 g water)
• The diluted first coat penetrates and grips the primed surface
• Coats 2 and 3 go on undiluted

Application - Three Coats:

• Apply with hand sprayer and back roll with foam roller (short-nap microfiber)
• Thin, even coats - avoid heavy application
• Work in one direction per coat
• Coverage: approximately 0.07 kg/m² per coat, 0.20 kg/m² total for 3 coats

Between Coats:

• Wait minimum 2 hours between coats