Microcement for tables and furniture on wood
Installation route · Tables & Furniture · Wood
The Eco-Tech route for Decorkrete microcement on wood in tables and furniture: 11 steps and 6 products, in the order they go on. Every number comes from the technical data sheets.
Open the illustrated guide Price this system
The system, in order
- Grip Primer : One coat of gritty primer gives a slick or sealed surface the grip the first coat needs.
- Decorkrete : The hero product of every microcement system. Two hand-trowelled coats with your choice of colour, and the trowel work gives each surface a pattern of its own.
- D20 : One coat on the sanded Decorkrete evens out absorption so the sealer goes on smooth.
- Aquafloor Eco : The final protective layer. Three matte coats keep your system looking seamless for years to come.
- ARDEX X 5 (Joint Filler) 18Kg Bag : needed on this route, quantity set by the project.
- Ardex SK Mesh (Seam Tape) : needed on this route, quantity set by the project.
Notes for this route
Playing with the material is part of the fun. Imperfections give a piece its character. Start with a simpler piece to build skill and confidence; the surface is not food-safe certified, so placemats on a dining table.
Scrape off or sand all loose or peeling finish; sound finish stays and takes Grip Primer directly. Fill gaps and holes and let the filler cure; Ardex X5 takes the larger gaps.
Steps
1. Materials & Tools
Gather everything before you begin
Purpose:
Gather all tools and materials before starting. Several products have strict working times—you don't want to stop mid-application to find a missing tool.
Mixing & Application Tools:
- Drill with spiral paddle mixer
- Clean mixing buckets (multiple)
- Stainless steel trowel with rounded edges
- Flexible putty knives (various sizes)
- Short-nap rollers and brushes
- Foam roller (for Aquafloor Eco)
- Spray bottle with clean water
Sanding & Cleaning:
- 80-120 grit sandpaper or sanding screens
- Orbital sander or similar (for flat areas)
- Sanding block (for hand sanding edges)
- Shop vacuum with brush attachment
- Clean, lint-free cloths
Preparation & Protection:
- Painter's tape and masking plastic
- Drop cloths
- Work light (for raking light inspection)
- PPE: gloves, safety goggles, dust mask
For countertops and furniture:
- Smaller detail trowels, sanding block for edge work
2. Surface Preparation · Furniture
Prepare tables, cabinets, and custom pieces
Purpose:
Furniture projects often involve multiple materials and detailed profiles. Each surface must be properly prepared, with special attention to edges, legs, and detailed areas that will be visible from all angles.
Wood Surfaces:
- Scrape off or sand all loose or peeling finish; sound finish stays and takes Grip Primer directly
- Fill gaps, holes, knots, and imperfections with wood filler
- Wipe clean with damp cloth and allow to dry
- Veneer: ensure firmly bonded with no lifting or bubbles
MDF & Composite:
- Sand surface lightly rough up surface
- Seal all exposed edges with Diaseal strong caulking—MDF absorbs moisture and swells
- Fill any chips or damage with wood filler
- Avoid excessive moisture during application
Edges & Details:
- Round any sharp edges slightly—sharp corners chip easily
- Plan how edges will terminate—wrapped or clean stop
- Decorative profiles: ensure all grooves and details are clean
- Remove or mask hardware, hinges, and drawer slides
Work Setup:
- Position piece for easy access to all surfaces
- Elevate on blocks or sawhorses if coating undersides
- Ensure adequate lighting to see all angles
- Protect work surface beneath piece
3. Ardex X5 Joint Filling
Fill joints, grout lines, and gaps
Purpose:
Ardex X5 is a rigid, cementitious filling mortar that fills joints, seams, and imperfections to create a smooth, continuous surface. For joints that need to move — expansion and control joints — use Diaseal Strong instead; a movement joint is never rigidly filled.
When Required:
- Plywood/OSB and cement board: the seams and the skim coat (required—Ardex SK Mesh on the seams)
- Deep tile grout lines (>3mm)
- Screw heads and fasteners
- Cracks, gaps, and surface imperfections
- Material transitions
Mixing:
- Water ratio: 5.68-6.6 L per 18 kg (40 lb) bag — for smaller batches, about 330 ml water per 1 kg powder
- Pour water into the bucket first, then gradually add powder while mixing
- Mix 2-3 minutes with a heavy-duty drill and paddle until smooth and lump-free
- Do NOT overwater — extra water weakens the mortar
- Stir again briefly just before use
- Pot life: 3 hours at 21°C — if it stiffens within that window, re-stir with the drill; never add more water
Application — Cracks, Chips and Transitions:
- Press Ardex X5 into the crack, chip or gap with a flexible putty knife
- Draw the blade flat so the fill sits flush with the surface
- Let it cure (typically 24 hours), then sand anything proud flush before priming
4. Grip Primer Application
Adhesion promoter for non-concrete surfaces
Mixing:
- Shake or stir Grip Primer thoroughly before use. Heavy aggregates settle to the bottom.
- Product can be diluted with up to 5% clean water
Application:
- Apply with short-nap roller or brush
- Work in manageable sections
- Apply thin, even coat - avoid pooling
- Ensure complete coverage including edges and corners
- Coverage rate: 0.15-0.20 kg/m²
Drying:
- Allow to dry completely — about 4 hours at 20°C / 40% RH
- Once dry, keep the primed surface clean and dry — do not wet it before the next product goes on
5. Decorkrete Application
Apply decorative microcement coating
Purpose:
- Decorkrete is the decorative microcement coating that creates your finished surface. Applied in two thin coats totaling approximately 2mm thickness, it develops the characteristic depth, texture, and organic beauty of microcement.
Coverage Rate:
- Total coverage: 1.20 kg/m² (both coats combined)
- First coat: approximately 0.60 kg/m²
- Second coat: approximately 0.60 kg/m²
- Set and work time: Initial set 30 min · work time 60 min at 20°C or cooler
Mixing (Bicomponent Kit):
- Decorkrete is a pre-dosed two-component kit — Component A (fine-cement powder) : Component B (elastic latex resin liquid) = 10:3 by weight. To mix part of a kit, follow the Batch Mixing Guide. Never batch by eye.
- Pour Component B (liquid resin) into the mixing pail first
- Add colour toner to the resin and mix briefly to disperse - both coats are toned
- Gradually add Component A (powder) while mixing with a spiral paddle
- Mix on low-medium speed (300-500 rpm) for 3-4 minutes
- Consistency should be like thick yogurt — a small splash of clean water can adjust consistency once per batch, at mixing or later while it's still workable. Water only adjusts the consistency; the kit ratio stays 10:3.
First Coat:
- Hold the trowel at about 45° with a little material on the edge and lay it on in short, slightly curved strokes
- Change direction constantly: up, across, on the diagonal, then back over at another angle. Each stroke covers the tails of the ones before it
- Keep it thin, about 1 mm. This coat covers; the second coat builds the finish
- Cover the whole surface, corners and edges included
- Work a section you can finish in 15-20 minutes and keep the edge wet. Blend each new stroke into the last before it skins
- Three or four passes over a spot is enough. Past that the trowel drags and darkens the colour
- Why the directions matter: every stroke leaves a faint line where the blade starts and stops. Strokes in one direction line those marks up into stripes. Strokes crossing each other break them into the soft, cloudy variation microcement is known for, and each pass catches the light a little differently
- The first coat's marks show through the second, so apply it the way you want the finish to look. For a smooth or cloudy finish, apply it as if it were the last coat. For a rustic stone look, leave ridges and crests in it on purpose: the height differences give the second coat its dimension
Between Coats:
- Wait 4-6 hours—surface should be firm but not fully cured
- Sanding between coats is only for large ridges you did not want: knock those down with 80-120 grit and vacuum. Otherwise leave the first coat alone
Second Coat:
- Same motion, same thickness: about 1 mm for 2 mm total. Its strokes cross the first coat's marks in fresh directions, which gives the surface its depth
- Hold the blade a little flatter and pull a little tighter for a smoother skin. Finish each section with light passes, the trowel almost flat, to compress the surface
- Smooth and even: tight overlapping strokes in every direction, light final passes
- Cloudier: vary pressure and stroke length a little. Once the coat begins to set (20-30 minutes), mist the surface until saturated and spread the water with the trowel; more water lightens the tone. This works best on darker colours; the cloud effect is hard to achieve on light or white colours
- Stone: over a first coat left with crests, lay this coat on smooth and even. Then set the trowel flat on the wet surface and lift it straight off: the pull leaves peaks and ridges, different every time. Knock them down with a light, flat pass that lays the peaks over without wiping them out. Sanding later creates the stone effect
- Stop when it starts to set. Reworking a stiffening area leaves dark streaks that only sanding back and recoating will remove
After Second Coat:
- Allow 24 hours minimum before sanding
- Protect from foot traffic and moisture during cure
- Application range: +5°C to +30°C; ideal working band 15-25°C, 40-60% humidity
6. Troweling Techniques
Laying on, crossing and closing each coat
Trowel Selection:
- Stainless steel trowel with rounded corners. Sharp corners dig in and leave lines
- Keep the blade clean. Dried material on it scratches the coat; wipe it often with a damp cloth
- Have a second trowel ready so the work never stops while one is being cleaned
Laying On:
- Hold the blade at about 45° with a little material on its leading edge and lay it on in short, slightly curved strokes
- As the Decorkrete spreads, let the blade drop flatter, to 15-30°. The steeper angle lays material on; the flatter angle spreads and compresses it
- Even light pressure from the start of the stroke to its end. Bearing down hard with the steel blade burns dark marks into the coat as it sets
- Change direction constantly: up, across, on the diagonal, then back over at another angle. Each stroke covers the tails of the ones before it and overlaps the last by about half
- Why the directions matter: every stroke leaves a faint line where the blade starts and stops. Strokes in one direction line those marks up into stripes; strokes crossing each other break them into the soft, cloudy variation microcement is known for
- Keep it thin, about 1 mm a coat. A lightly loaded blade and more strokes beats an overloaded trowel
- Three or four passes over a spot is enough. Past that the trowel drags and darkens the colour
- Work a section you can finish in 15-20 minutes and keep the edge wet. Blend each new stroke into the last before it skins
Finishing:
- Finish each section with light passes, the trowel almost flat, to compress the surface into a smooth skin
- Smooth and even: tight overlapping strokes in every direction, then the light final passes
- Cloudier: vary pressure and stroke length a little. Once the coat begins to set (20-30 minutes), mist the section until saturated and spread the water with the trowel; more water lightens the tone. This works best on darker colours; the cloud effect is hard to achieve on light or white colours
- Stone: over a first coat left with crests, lay this coat on smooth and even. Then set the trowel flat on the wet surface and lift it straight off: the pull leaves peaks and ridges, different every time. Knock them down with a light, flat pass that lays the peaks over without wiping them out. Sanding later creates the stone effect
- Stop when it starts to set. Reworking a stiffening area leaves dark streaks that only sanding back and recoating will remove
7. Furniture Techniques
Application tips for tables, chairs, and decor
Working Position:
- Elevate piece on sawhorses or blocks
- Work on all reachable surfaces at once
- Plan rotation order for multi-sided pieces
- Allow proper drying before flipping
Complex Surfaces:
- Use brush for first coat on carved/detailed areas
- Work material into crevices and corners
- Follow up with small trowel or putty knife
- Use various size putty knives for tight areas
Legs & Edges:
- Apply from the bottom up, never top down as material will easily fall off the trowel
- Rotate piece to access all angles
- Hand sand all edges - power sanders remove too much
- Build up thin layers on sharp edges
Finishing:
- Extra sealer coats on high-wear surfaces
- Consider matte vs. satin finish per design
- Cure fully before use (5-7 days)
8. Sanding Decorkrete
Prepare surface for sealer application
Purpose:
Sanding smooths high spots, removes trowel marks, and creates a uniform surface texture before sealing. This step also opens the surface to accept D20 Fixative and Aquafloor Eco. Light, even sanding—not aggressive removal—is the goal.
Readiness Check:
- Wait minimum 24 hours after final Decorkrete coat
- Surface should be completely firm and dry to touch
- Cold or humid conditions extend cure time significantly
Tools Required:
- 80-120 grit sandpaper or sanding screens
- Orbital sander for flat areas (optional but faster)
- Sanding block for hand sanding
- Shop vacuum with brush attachment
- Clean, lint-free cloths
- Work light for raking light inspection
Sanding Process — Flat Areas:
- Use orbital sander with 80-120 grit disc or sanding screen
- Keep sander moving—never stay in one spot
- Use light, even pressure—let the sandpaper do the work
- Work in overlapping circular or random orbital motions
- Sand entire surface uniformly—don't focus only on visible high spots
- Check progress frequently by wiping away dust
- Stop when surface feels uniformly smooth
Sanding Process — Edges, Corners & Details:
- ALWAYS hand sand edges and corners—orbital sanders remove too much material
- Use 120-grit sandpaper wrapped around sanding block
- Work slowly with light pressure
- Check frequently—edges thin quickly
- For inside corners: fold sandpaper and work carefully
- For detailed areas: use smaller pieces of sandpaper by hand
How Much to Sand:
- Sand to smooth the surface; take off as little as possible
- High spots and trowel ridges should flatten
- Surface should feel uniformly smooth when you run your hand across it
- Some texture variation is normal and desirable—don't sand to perfection
- If you see primer or substrate, you've gone too far—touch up with Decorkrete
9. Dust Removal
Prepare surface for sealing
Purpose:
Dust contamination is the leading cause of sealer adhesion failure. Sanding creates fine particles that settle into the microcement's texture and pores. These particles must be completely removed before D20 Fixative—any remaining dust creates a barrier that prevents proper bonding and causes peeling, flaking, and delamination.
Tools Required:
- Shop vacuum with soft brush attachment
- Clean, lint-free cloths (microfiber works well)
- Clean water in spray bottle or bucket
Step 1 — Initial Vacuum:
- Vacuum entire surface thoroughly with brush attachment
- Work systematically—don't skip areas
- Pay extra attention to inside corners where dust accumulates
- Vacuum edges, transitions, and textured areas carefully
- Vacuum surrounding areas—dust on adjacent surfaces will migrate back
Step 2 — Damp Wipe:
- Dampen cloth with clean water—wring out thoroughly
- Cloth should be damp, not wet—excess water can damage uncured microcement
- Wipe entire surface in overlapping passes
- Rinse and re-wring cloth frequently as it collects dust
- Use fresh cloths as needed—dirty cloth just moves dust around
- Wipe corners and details with smaller cloth or folded edge
Step 3 — Dry:
- Allow surface to dry completely—typically 30-60 minutes
- Do not apply D20 to damp surface
- Warmer, drier conditions speed drying
- Ensure good ventilation during drying
Step 4 — Final Vacuum (If Needed):
- If a clean dark cloth wiped across the dry surface still picks up dust, repeat the vacuum and the damp wipe
- Do not proceed until the surface wipes clean
- Better to spend extra time cleaning than to have sealer failure
Environmental Considerations:
- Close windows and doors to prevent airborne dust settling
- Turn off HVAC if it circulates dust
- Remove any dust-generating activities from the area
- Apply D20 Fixative as soon as possible after final cleaning
- If significant time passes, re-inspect and clean again before D20
10. D20 Primer Application
Consolidating primer before final sealer
Purpose:
- Binds any remaining dust particles
- Consolidates and strengthens Decorkrete surface
- Provides ideal base for Aquafloor Eco adhesion
- Never skip this step - critical for durability
Application:
- Apply with short-nap foam roller
- Thin, even coat - avoid pooling
- Coverage rate: 0.15 kg/m²
- Work in one direction
- Ensure complete coverage
Drying:
- Dry time: 3 hours at 23°C / 50% RH
- Surface should be dry to touch
- Do not proceed if still tacky
11. Aquafloor Eco Sealer
Protective polyurethane coating
Before You Mix - Plan Your Batch:
- Pot life is 2 hours - only mix what you can apply in that window
- A full 6.25 kg kit covers about 31 m² (336 ft²) across all three coats - do NOT mix the whole kit for a smaller area
- For a partial batch, weigh out 80% Component A + 20% Component B (example: 800 g of A + 200 g of B)
- Reseal both containers immediately - unmixed product keeps for the next coat
Mixing (2-Component):
- Pour your measured Component B into the measured Component A
- Mix thoroughly for 2-3 minutes until homogeneous with no streaks
- Use immediately after mixing
Coat 1 - Diluted:
- Dilute the mixed product 30% with clean water (example: 1 kg of mix + 300 g water)
- The diluted first coat penetrates and grips the primed surface
- Coats 2 and 3 go on undiluted
Application - Three Coats:
- Apply with hand sprayer and back roll with foam roller (short-nap microfiber)
- Thin, even coats - avoid heavy application
- Work in one direction per coat
- Coverage: approximately 0.07 kg/m² per coat, 0.20 kg/m² total for 3 coats
Between Coats:
- Wait minimum 2 hours between coats
Quantities for your area
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